​Revotec Electric Cooling Fan Kits​

Keeping your cool

Electric cooling fans are an area where poor-quality upgrades are unfortunately common. Many low-cost kits use plastic fixings that pass directly through the radiator core, risking damage and reduced cooling efficiency. However, before discussing why many of these kits fall short, it is worth asking a more important question. Do you actually need an electric cooling fan?

In many cases, the answer is no. If an engine struggles to maintain correct operating temperature during normal driving, there is usually an underlying issue elsewhere in the cooling system. Before considering any upgrade, the entire system should be checked and correctly specified.  In our experience, the majority of cooling problems are caused by one or more of the following:

• Component failure
• Incorrect antifreeze or incompatible additives that have coagulated
• Incorrect component specification, most commonly thermostat opening temperature or radiator core thickness
• A silted or partially blocked radiator operating at reduced capacity

Once these fundamentals have been addressed, there are several valid reasons to fit an electric cooling fan kit. When one is required, Revotec systems offer the most reliable and well-engineered solution available.

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The physics of cooling an engine bay

For a cooling fan to move air effectively, it requires both speed and torque. Speed determines how much air is moved, while torque is critical in an engine bay environment where air must be pushed or pulled through several restrictions. These typically include the radiator, oil cooler, and in some cases an air conditioning condenser.

Mechanically driven fans provide high airflow and torque at cruising speeds. However, as engine speed falls, fan speed reduces proportionally. This is precisely when cooling demand often increases.

The situation is compounded at low vehicle speeds by reduced natural airflow and increased heat soak from surrounding components such as the exhaust system and engine block. This is where an electric fan offers a clear advantage. Because it is driven by an independent electric motor, it can operate at full output regardless of engine speed, delivering maximum cooling when it is most needed.

Additional engine bay cooling is often required following other modifications, such as the installation of a stainless steel exhaust manifold. While beneficial for engine performance, stainless steel manifolds radiate significantly more heat than traditional cast iron designs. When unwrapped, they can raise engine bay temperatures by up to 30 degrees within minutes of engine start-up.

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5 reasons why most cooling fans don't work!

1. Insufficient motor torque

Many low-cost cooling fans use weak electric motors. While they may move a reasonable volume of air in free-flow conditions, they struggle to push or pull air through the restrictions found in an engine bay, most notably the radiator.

2. Compromised universal fan design

Most budget kits use so-called universal fans that are intended to work in both push and pull configurations. This allows suppliers to reduce manufacturing costs, but it results in a compromised blade design that moves less air than a fan engineered specifically for a single orientation.

3. Damaging mounting methods

Universal fans are often mounted directly to the radiator using plastic push-through fixings. These pass through the radiator core, risking damage during installation and weakening the radiator over time. The aim of an upgrade should be to improve reliability, not introduce new failure points.

4. Poor-quality thermostatic control

The thermostats supplied with many kits are of inconsistent quality and typically rely on a probe inserted into the top hose. These installations are untidy and frequently allow coolant seepage, regardless of how securely the hose clip is tightened.

5. Inadequate wiring

Many kits are supplied without a wiring loom, and those that include one are often under-specified. Electric cooling fans draw a significant amount of current and should be wired using cable rated to at least 30 amps, with proper fuse protection either through the vehicle’s fuse box or a high-quality inline fuse. We regularly see cars that have overheated because fan wiring has failed or melted.